PANAJI: Goa’s iconic heritage spirit, Feni, now with a GI or Geographical Indicator, has become significantly more expensive over the last couple of years, following a sharp decline in cashew production, leaving consumers, retailers and manufacturers concerned about both rising prices and the possibility of counterfeit or adulterated versions entering the market.
The traditional drink, which enjoys a Geographical Indication (GI) tag and is deeply associated with Goa’s cultural identity, has reportedly witnessed a steep increase in wholesale prices. According to industry stakeholders, a 35-litre can of Cashew Feni that was available for around Rs 4,000 a couple of years earlier in local markets, is now selling for between Rs 7,000 and Rs 8,000 or even much more, marking an increase of nearly 100 percent.
The sudden rise has been attributed primarily to poor cashew yields caused by unseasonal and erratic rainfall during the previous harvesting seasons. With raw material in short supply, Feni production has dropped considerably, creating a supply-demand imbalance across the state.
Retailers say they anticipated a moderate increase in prices but were taken by surprise by the scale of the hike.
“We expected the price to rise by about 20 to 30 percent, but it has almost doubled compared to last year. Producers are now charging between Rs 7,000 and Rs 8,000 for a 35-litre can, and this pricing is expected to remain until the next production cycle,” retailer Shailesh Naik told IANS in an interview last year. This year the situation is no different.
Industry representatives are now warning that the shortage may encourage unscrupulous operators to manufacture fake versions of the spirit using industrial alcohol, artificial flavouring and chemical additives. Such products, they fear, could not only damage the reputation of Goa’s heritage beverage but also pose health risks to consumers. In fact, in parts of South Goa, this adulteration has already begun, say insiders.
Mac Vaz, founder-president of the Cashew Feni Distillers and Bottlers Association, said the industry’s biggest concern extends beyond higher prices.
“The increase in prices is a direct consequence of poor cashew production due to unseasonal rains. However, our biggest worry is that some people may try to exploit the shortage by producing spurious Feni using artificial ingredients,” Vaz told IANS.
He added that such practices could undermine the credibility of authentic manufacturers who continue to follow the traditional distillation process that has been preserved for generations.
Feni occupies a unique place in India’s alcoholic beverage industry. In 2016, the Goa government officially recognised both Feni and Urrak as the state’s heritage drinks. Cashew Feni, in particular, holds the distinction of being India’s first indigenous liquor to receive a Geographical Indication tag. The GI certification, secured after efforts initiated by Goan producers in 2009, protects the beverage’s traditional production methods and prevents imitation outside the state or production outside Goa and illegal labeling of outside-state produce as Goan Feni.
Only Feni manufactured in Goa using the original or traditional methods can be termed or labeled as “Feni”.
Although Cashew Feni is the most widely consumed variety, the spirit is also distilled from coconuts in several parts of Goa. Now artificial flavouring of the original product has made matters worse for traditional producers in rural Goa.
The production process itself distinguishes Feni from Urrak. Urrak is obtained through the first distillation of fermented cashew apple juice and is a lighter, seasonal alcoholic beverage often enjoyed with lime juice. Feni, on the other hand, is produced through a second distillation, resulting in a stronger spirit. Another popular variation, known as Masala Feni, is infused with spices such as cloves, pepper, nutmeg and cinnamon, although the original double-distilled version remains the most sought-after. The Masala Feni manufacturers have started using essences and chemical flavouring – something that the traditional manufacturers are not happy about.
Feni manufacturer Abhay Khedekar said production has nearly halved over the last 2-3 years because of the poor cashew harvest.
“There is strong demand for Feni from retailers, especially during the monsoon season, but production has been significantly lower this year,” he said.
As prices continue to climb, both producers and consumers each year hope that the next cashew season delivers a better harvest. Until then, industry stakeholders are urging authorities to remain vigilant against counterfeit products to protect the authenticity and reputation of one of Goa’s most celebrated and purchased traditional beverages.